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(Created page with "{{HPB-Caves-header | letter = 19 }} {{Style P-Title|Letter XIX<ref>''Moscow News'', No. 97, 07.04.1880, pp. 4-5; ''Russian Herald'', January 1883, Supplement, vol 163, pp. 1...")
 
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Ram-Runjit-Das appeared to us mounted on a magnificent horse, and accompanied by another Sikh, who respectfully walked some distance behind him, and was evidently his novice or servant. Our Hindu companions had discerned that he was an akali, when he was still in the distance. He wore a bright blue tunic without sleeves, exactly like that we see on the statues of Roman warriors. Broad steel bracelets protected his strong arms, and a shield protruded from behind his back. A blue, conical turban covered his head, and round his waist were many steel circlets. The enemies of the Sikhs assert that these sacred sectarian belts become more dangerous in the hand of an experienced “God's warrior,” than any other cold weapon.
Ram-Runjit-Das appeared to us mounted on a magnificent horse, and accompanied by another Sikh, who respectfully walked some distance behind him, and was evidently his novice or servant. Our Hindu companions had discerned that he was an akali, when he was still in the distance. He wore a bright blue tunic without sleeves, exactly like that we see on the statues of Roman warriors. Broad steel bracelets protected his strong arms, and a shield protruded from behind his back. A blue, conical turban covered his head, and round his waist were many steel circlets. The enemies of the Sikhs assert that these sacred sectarian belts become more dangerous in the hand of an experienced “God's warrior,” than any other cold weapon.


Who does not know the history of the Sikhs, the bravest and the most warlike sect of the whole Punjab? The word ''sikh'' means disciple. Founded in the XVth century by the wealthy and noble brahmin Nanak, the new teaching spread so successfully amongst the northern wariors, that in 1539 A.D., when the founder died, it counted one hundred thousand followers. At the present time, this sect, harmonizing closely with the fiery natural mysticism, and the warlike tendencies of the natives, is the reigning creed of the whole Punjab. It is based on the principles of theocratic rule; but its dogmas are almost unknown to Europeans, and completely unknown to the British; the teachings, the religious conceptions, and the rites of the Sikhs, are kept in the greatest secret. The following details are known generally: the Sikhs are ardent monotheists, they refuse to recognize caste; have no restrictions in diet, like Europeans; and ''bury'' their dead, which is a rare exception among Hindus. The second volume of the ''Adigrantha'' teaches them “to adore the only true God; to avoid superstitions; ''to help the dead ''(?) to lead a righteous life; and ''to earn one's living by the sword''.” Govinda, one of the great ''gurus'' of the Sikhs, ordered them never to shave their beards and moustaches, and not to cut their hair – in order that they may not be mistaken for Mussulmans or any other native of India. Many a desperate battle the Sikhs fought and won, against the Mussulmans, and against the Hindus. Their leader, the celebrated Runjit-Sing, after having been acknowledged the autocrat of the Upper Punjab, concluded a treaty with Lord Auckland<ref>[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auckland_Colvin Auckland Colvin] (1838-1908) was a colonial administrator in India (most of the time) and Egypt (1880–2). He served as Lieutenant-governor of the North-West Provinces (as his father had been), the area included Punjab. – Ed.</ref>, at the beginning of this century, in which his country was proclaimed an independent state. But after the death of the “old lion,” his throne became the cause of the most dreadful civil wars between Sikhs themselves. Maharaja Dhulip-Sing (his bastard son by a public dancer) turned out to be so weak that he allowed his Sikhs, who had hitherto remained loyal allies of the British, to try to win the whole of Hindustan from the latter,  as they once conquered border villages and fortresses in Afghanistan. The attempt ended disastrously for both the violent Sikhs and the weak Duleep Sing. Persecuted by his own soldiers, Dhulip-Sing sought the help of Englishmen, and so was converted to Christianity and was secretly transported to Scotland. He was replaced by Gulab Sing. True to the word and the political program of Runjit Sing. He refused to become a traitor, therefore he received as a reward the charming Kashmir Valley from the British frightened by the Sikhs, and the Sikhs went into captivity to them, like the rest of the Hindus.
Who does not know the history of the Sikhs, the bravest and the most warlike sect of the whole Punjab? The word ''sikh'' means disciple. Founded in the XVth century by the wealthy and noble brahmin Nanak, the new teaching spread so successfully amongst the northern warriors, that in 1539 AD, when the founder died, it counted one hundred thousand followers. At the present time, this sect, harmonizing closely with the fiery natural mysticism, and the warlike tendencies of the natives, is the reigning creed of the whole Punjab. It is based on the principles of theocratic rule; but its dogmas are almost unknown to Europeans, and completely unknown to the British; the teachings, the religious conceptions, and the rites of the Sikhs, are kept in the greatest secret. The following details are known generally: the Sikhs are ardent monotheists, they refuse to recognize caste; have no restrictions in diet, like Europeans; and ''bury'' their dead, which is a rare exception among Hindus. The second volume of the ''Adigrantha'' teaches them “to adore the only true God; to avoid superstitions; ''to help the dead ''(?) to lead a righteous life; and ''to earn one's living by the sword''.” Govinda, one of the great ''gurus'' of the Sikhs, ordered them never to shave their beards and moustaches, and not to cut their hair – in order that they may not be mistaken for Mussulmans or any other native of India. Many a desperate battle the Sikhs fought and won, against the Mussulmans, and against the Hindus. Their leader, the celebrated Runjit-Sing, after having been acknowledged the autocrat of the Upper Punjab, concluded a treaty with Lord Auckland<ref>[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auckland_Colvin Auckland Colvin] (1838-1908) was a colonial administrator in India (most of the time) and Egypt (1880–2). He served as Lieutenant-governor of the North-West Provinces (as his father had been), the area included Punjab. – Ed.</ref>, at the beginning of this century, in which his country was proclaimed an independent state. But after the death of the “old lion,” his throne became the cause of the most dreadful civil wars between Sikhs themselves. Maharaja Dhulip-Sing (his bastard son by a public dancer) turned out to be so weak that he allowed his Sikhs, who had hitherto remained loyal allies of the British, to try to win the whole of Hindustan from the latter,  as they once conquered border villages and fortresses in Afghanistan. The attempt ended disastrously for both the violent Sikhs and the weak Dhulip-Sing. Persecuted by his own soldiers, Dhulip-Sing sought the help of Englishmen, and so was converted to Christianity and was secretly transported to Scotland. He was replaced by Gulab-Sing. True to the word and the political program of Runjit-Sing. He refused to become a traitor, therefore he received as a reward the charming Kashmir Valley from the British frightened by the Sikhs, and the Sikhs went into captivity to them, like the rest of the Hindus.


But still there are ''kukas'' remains, a branch from the broken old oak of Sikhism. The ''kukas'' represent the most dangerous underground current of the Indian people's hatred. This new sect was founded about 30 years ago [written in 1879] by Balak-Rama<ref>[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balak_Singh Balak Singh] (1797-1862) was an Indian Sikh religious leader who founded ''namdhari'' (''kuka'') sect. Baba Ram Singh (1816-1885) was a successor of Balak Singh. – Ed.</ref>, and, at first, formed a bulk of people near Attok, in the Punjab, on the east bank of the Indus, exactly on the spot where the latter becomes navigable, being filled with the water from Kabul river. Balak-Rama had a double aim: to restore the religion of the Sikhs to its pristine purity, and to organize a secret political body, which must be ready for everything, at a moment's notice. This brotherhood consists of more then 60,000 members, who bound themselves by the most terrible oaths and pledges: firstly never to reveal their secrets, and secondly never to disobey any order of their leaders. In Attok itself they are few, because the population of the fortress is two o three thousands. But we were assured that the ''kukas'' live everywhere in India. Despite all the efforts, it is absolutely impossible to convict them of anything illegal, to such an extent their society is well organized. Their leaders are also unknown.  
But still there are ''kukas'' remains, a branch from the broken old oak of Sikhism. The ''kukas'' represent the most dangerous underground current of the Indian people's hatred. This new sect was founded about 30 years ago [written in 1879] by Balak-Rama<ref>[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balak_Singh Balak Singh] (1797-1862) was an Indian Sikh religious leader who founded ''namdhari'' (''kuka'') sect. Baba Ram Singh (1816-1885) was a successor of Balak Singh. – Ed.</ref>, and, at first, formed a bulk of people near Attok, in the Punjab, on the east bank of the Indus, exactly on the spot where the latter becomes navigable, being filled with the water from Kabul river. Balak-Rama had a double aim: to restore the religion of the Sikhs to its pristine purity, and to organize a secret political body, which must be ready for everything, at a moment's notice. This brotherhood consists of more then 60,000 members, who bound themselves by the most terrible oaths and pledges: firstly never to reveal their secrets, and secondly never to disobey any order of their leaders. In Attok itself they are few, because the population of the fortress is two or three thousands. But we were assured that the ''kukas'' live everywhere in India. Despite all the efforts, it is absolutely impossible to convict them of anything illegal, to such an extent their society is well organized. Their leaders are also unknown.  


In the course of the evening our akali presented us with a little crystal bottle, filled with water from the “Lake of Immortality.” The gift was not from Swami Dayananda, but from akali himself. He said that a drop of it would cure all diseases of the eye. There are numbers of fresh springs at the bottom of this lake, and so its water is wonderfully pure and transparent, in spite of hundreds of people daily bathing in it. When, later on, we visited it, we had the opportunity to verify the fact that the smallest stone at the bottom and even every smallest spot on it is seen perfectly distinctly, all over the 150 square yards [125.42 sq. km] of the lake. Amrita-Saras is the most charming of all the sights of Northern India. The reflection of the Golden Temple in its crystal waters represents something magical and delightful. Aivazovsky<ref>[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ivan_Aivazovsky Ivan Aivazovsky] (1817-1900) was a Russian painter who is considered one of the greatest masters of marine art. – Ed.</ref> alone would be able to convey this picture on canvas.
In the course of the evening our akali presented us with a little crystal bottle, filled with water from the “Lake of Immortality.” The gift was not from Swami Dayananda, but from akali himself. He said that a drop of it would cure all diseases of the eye. There are numbers of fresh springs at the bottom of this lake, and so its water is wonderfully pure and transparent, in spite of hundreds of people daily bathing in it. When, later on, we visited it, we had the opportunity to verify the fact that the smallest stone at the bottom and even every smallest spot on it is seen perfectly distinctly, all over the 150 square yards [125.42 sq. km] of the lake. Amrita-Saras is the most charming of all the sights of Northern India. The reflection of the Golden Temple in its crystal waters represents something magical and delightful. Aivazovsky<ref>[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ivan_Aivazovsky Ivan Aivazovsky] (1817-1900) was a Russian painter who is considered one of the greatest masters of marine art. – Ed.</ref> alone would be able to convey this picture on canvas.
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We had still seven weeks at our disposal. We were undecided between exploring the Bombay Presidency, the North-West Provinces and the Rajasthan. Which were we to choose? Where were we to go? Before such a variety of interesting places we hesitated like a famous animal between two stalls. Hyderabad, which is said to transport the tourists into the scenery of the Arabian Nights, seemed so attractive that we seriously thought of turning our elephants back to the territory of the Nizam<ref>''Nizam'' is the hereditary title of the rulers of the Hyderabad dynasty. – Ed.</ref>. We grew fond of the idea of visiting this “City of the Lion,”<ref>''Haidar'' is a lion in Arabic, and ''abad'' is a settlement, a dwelling. Hyderabad was formerly called ''Bhagnagar'' (the happy city), having received its name from the Shah's beloved concubine Muhammad-Kuli, whose name was Bhagmati; but after her death, the name was changed.</ref> which was built in 1589 by the magnificent Mohamed-Kuli-Kuth-Shah, who was so used to luxuries of every kind as to grow weary even of Golkonda, with all its fairyland castles and treasures. Some buildings of Hyderabad, mere remnants of the past glory, are still known to renown. Mir-Abu-Talib, the keeper of the Royal Treasury, states that Mohamed-Kuli-Shah spent the fabulous sum of 2,800,000 pounds sterling (in British currency) on the embellishment of the town, at the beginning of his reign; though the labor of the workmen did not cost him a pice<ref>''Pice'' is a small coin in India (until 1950) equals to 1/64 of a rupee. – Ed.</ref>... Save these few memorials of greatness, the town looks like a heap of rubbish and manure nowadays. But on the other hand, according to eyewitnesses, the "British Residence" of Hyderabad is still famous throughout the country and is not for nothing called the Versailles of India. The history of this residence is highly curious and clearly characterizes the Anglo-Indian mores.  
We had still seven weeks at our disposal. We were undecided between exploring the Bombay Presidency, the North-West Provinces and the Rajasthan. Which were we to choose? Where were we to go? Before such a variety of interesting places we hesitated like a famous animal between two stalls. Hyderabad, which is said to transport the tourists into the scenery of the Arabian Nights, seemed so attractive that we seriously thought of turning our elephants back to the territory of the Nizam<ref>''Nizam'' is the hereditary title of the rulers of the Hyderabad dynasty. – Ed.</ref>. We grew fond of the idea of visiting this “City of the Lion,”<ref>''Haidar'' is a lion in Arabic, and ''abad'' is a settlement, a dwelling. Hyderabad was formerly called ''Bhagnagar'' (the happy city), having received its name from the Shah's beloved concubine Muhammad-Kuli, whose name was Bhagmati; but after her death, the name was changed.</ref> which was built in 1589 by the magnificent Mohamed-Kuli-Kuth-Shah, who was so used to luxuries of every kind as to grow weary even of Golkonda, with all its fairyland castles and treasures. Some buildings of Hyderabad, mere remnants of the past glory, are still known to renown. Mir-Abu-Talib, the keeper of the Royal Treasury, states that Mohamed-Kuli-Shah spent the fabulous sum of 2,800,000 pounds sterling (in British currency) on the embellishment of the town, at the beginning of his reign; though the labor of the workmen did not cost him a pice<ref>''Pice'' is a small coin in India (until 1950) equals to 1/64 of a rupee. – Ed.</ref>... Save these few memorials of greatness, the town looks like a heap of rubbish and manure nowadays. But on the other hand, according to eyewitnesses, the "British Residence" of Hyderabad is still famous throughout the country and is not for nothing called the Versailles of India. The history of this residence is highly curious and clearly characterizes the Anglo-Indian mores.  


In 1788, probably imagining himself the Caliph, – ''anch'io son pittore<ref>“I am a painter too” (it.) – the exclamation that escaped Correggio at the sight of Raphael's painting "Sistine Madonna" and became proverbial as a manifestation of confidence in ones vocation and skill. – Ed.</ref>'' (the residents are true caliphs), an Irishman, colonel Kirkpatrick<ref>[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/James_Achilles_Kirkpatrick James Achilles Kirkpatrick] (1764-1805) served as the Resident at Hyderabad Deccan from 1798 until 1805. – Ed.</ref>, who in those days had this beneficial position under nizami, planned to begin construction of this residence, of course, at the expense of Hyderabad ruler. The building was one of the wonders of the world. It combines the magical gardens of Babylon and the luxury palaces of the French Regency. Twenty-two steps, each from a single piece of pink granite of huge dimensions in width, decorated on both sides with colossal sphinxes, leading to the portico, in full-width of which giant Corinthian columns of pure white marble ascended to the top floor of the main building. These columns are 8 vershoks [35.56 cm, 14&nbsp;in] higher than the columns of the famous “Halls of the thousand columns” of Chidambram temple in the Madras Presidency. The floors are of black and white marble; over the doors there are coats of arms of the East India Company and England; in some of which pieces of pure gold replace bronze lions. If the staircase to the portico is rightly considered “the greatest and most splendid one in India,” the reception hall of the residence could be envied by any of the hall of the Royal palaces of Europe. The hall stretches along the facade of the Palace in full length and on both sides of it, as in the famous cathedrals, there are two rows of marble columns. As in Chidambram where the “hall of a thousand columns,” so called probably because it has 936 columns, so the hall of residence is called the “hall of a hundred columns” since it has only 32 columns in a row, for a total of 64, which is already very respectable. But in addition to the columns of carved marble and bronze work, in this hall there are niches with statues of the Hindu and Greek gods and goddesses – works of the best at that time sculptors of Italy. All the hangings are of crimson velvet embroidered with gold; mahogany inlaid furniture are covered with such fabric; there are 60 mirrors between the windows, all over the wall, from ceiling to floor in the most expensive frames, and three chandeliers, which the Hidus who built this palace, at one time worshiped as gods, were ordered at a fabulous price from France. These are the main features of this worthy of Aladdin's Palace, which now is home to residents, the responsibility of which – the known noble pretext, chosen by England for annexation of Indian provinces – to stand as advocates and intermediaries between oppressed people and their “not knowing how to govern” influential princes of India. The people, meanwhile, periodically dying ''of hunger'' in millions, while the lighting alone of the British residence during parties, ''according to official reports'' costs the treasury 1,000 pounds sterling a night...  
In 1788, probably imagining himself the Caliph, – ''anch'io son pittore<ref>“I am a painter too” (it.) – the exclamation that escaped Correggio at the sight of Raphael's painting "Sistine Madonna" and became proverbial as a manifestation of confidence in ones vocation and skill. – Ed.</ref>'' (the residents are true caliphs), an Irishman, colonel Kirkpatrick<ref>[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/James_Achilles_Kirkpatrick James Achilles Kirkpatrick] (1764-1805) served as the Resident at Hyderabad Deccan from 1798 until 1805. – Ed.</ref>, who in those days had this beneficial position under nizami, planned to begin construction of this residence, of course, at the expense of Hyderabad ruler. The building was one of the wonders of the world. It combines the magical gardens of Babylon and the luxury palaces of the French Regency. Twenty-two steps, each from a single piece of pink granite of huge dimensions in width, decorated on both sides with colossal sphinxes, leading to the portico, in full-width of which giant Corinthian columns of pure white marble ascended to the top floor of the main building. These columns are 8 vershoks [35.56 cm, 14&nbsp;in] higher than the columns of the famous “Halls of the thousand columns” of Chidambram temple in the Madras Presidency. The floors are of black and white marble; over the doors there are coats of arms of the East India Company and England; in some of which pieces of pure gold replace bronze lions. If the staircase to the portico is rightly considered “the greatest and most splendid one in India,” the reception hall of the residence could be envied by any of the hall of the Royal palaces of Europe. The hall stretches along the facade of the Palace in full length and on both sides of it, as in the famous cathedrals, there are two rows of marble columns. As in Chidambram where the “hall of a thousand columns,” so called probably because it has 936 columns, so the hall of residence is called the “hall of a hundred columns” since it has only 32 columns in a row, for a total of 64, which is already very respectable. But in addition to the columns of carved marble and bronze work, in this hall there are niches with statues of the Hindu and Greek gods and goddesses – works of the best at that time sculptors of Italy. All the hangings are of crimson velvet embroidered with gold; mahogany inlaid furniture are covered with such fabric; there are 60 mirrors between the windows, all over the wall, from ceiling to floor in the most expensive frames, and three chandeliers, which the Hindus who built this palace, at one time worshiped as gods, were ordered at a fabulous price from France. These are the main features of this worthy of Aladdin's Palace, which now is home to residents, the responsibility of which – the known noble pretext, chosen by England for annexation of Indian provinces – to stand as advocates and intermediaries between oppressed people and their “not knowing how to govern” influential princes of India. The people, meanwhile, periodically dying ''of hunger'' in millions, while the lighting alone of the British residence during parties, ''according to official reports'' costs the treasury 1,000 pounds sterling a night...  


Oh, Tartuffe<ref>''Tartuffe'' is the common name of the hero of Moliere's comedy of the same name, the personification of hypocrisy and hypocrisy. – Ed.</ref>! Is your name Great Britain now?..
Oh, Tartuffe<ref>''Tartuffe'' is the common name of the hero of Moliere's comedy of the same name, the personification of hypocrisy. – Ed.</ref>! Is your name Great Britain now?..


But this is nothing compared to the past. In the ''History of Hyderabad'' (by Edward Westwick) we read the following:  
But this is nothing compared to the past. In the ''History of Hyderabad'' (by Edward Westwick) we read the following:  


{{Style P-Quote|“Whilst the residents entertained the gentlemen, their wifes were similarly employed receiving the ladies a few sazhens<ref>1 sazhen = 2.13 m = 7 ft. – Ed.</ref> off, in a separate palace, which was as sumptuous (if not more), and bore the name of Rang-Mahal. Both palaces were built by colonel Kirkpatrick, the late minister at the nizam's court. Having married a native princess, he constructed this charming abode for her personal use. Its garden is surrounded by a high wall, as is customary in the Orient, and the center of the garden is adorned with a large marble a swimming pool with scenes of Ramayana history laid out with mosaics on the walls. Pavilions, galleries and terraces – everything in this garden is loaded with adornments of the most costly Oriental style, that is to say, with abundance of inlaid designs, paintings, gilding, ivory and marble. The great attraction of Mrs. Kirkpatrick's receptions were the ''nautches'' (professional dancers),  magnificently dressed, thanks to the generosity of the Resident. Some of them wore a cargo of jewels worth 30,000 pounds sterling, and literally shone from head to foot with diamonds and other precious stones...”}}
{{Style P-Quote|“Whilst the residents entertained the gentlemen, their wives were similarly employed receiving the ladies a few sazhens<ref>1 sazhen = 2.13 m = 7 ft. – Ed.</ref> off, in a separate palace, which was as sumptuous (if not more), and bore the name of Rang-Mahal. Both palaces were built by colonel Kirkpatrick, the late minister at the nizam's court. Having married a native princess, he constructed this charming abode for her personal use. Its garden is surrounded by a high wall, as is customary in the Orient, and the center of the garden is adorned with a large marble swimming pool with scenes of Ramayana history laid out with mosaics on the walls. Pavilions, galleries and terraces – everything in this garden is loaded with adornments of the most costly Oriental style, that is to say, with abundance of inlaid designs, paintings, gilding, ivory and marble. The great attraction of Mrs. Kirkpatrick's receptions were the ''nautches'' (professional dancers),  magnificently dressed, thanks to the generosity of the Resident. Some of them wore a cargo of jewels worth 30,000 pounds sterling, and literally shone from head to foot with diamonds and other precious stones...”}}


The glory of the East India Company, during which the company residents could be so "generous" at the expense of the princes, has already faded. Now there is nothing left for the residents or the princes themselves. Like the ancient alchemists, the British melted down, in the hope of finding the philosopher's stone of politics, all the gold of Hindustan; and even India itself – "the most precious diamond in the crown of England" – was ground into dust, melted and charred. Still happy the Britishman will be if Afghanistan (considered as an “addition” to their charred “diamond” of India) will not grind them into fine powder in its enchanted mortar...<ref>The Second Anglo-Afghan War of 1878-1881 is probably meant. – Ed.</ref>
The glory of the East India Company, during which the company residents could be so "generous" at the expense of the princes, has already faded. Now there is nothing left for the residents or the princes themselves. Like the ancient alchemists, the British melted down, in the hope of finding the philosopher's stone of politics, all the gold of Hindustan; and even India itself – "the most precious diamond in the crown of England" – was ground into dust, melted and charred. Still happy the Britishman will be if Afghanistan (considered as an “addition” to their charred “diamond” of India) will not grind them into fine powder in its enchanted mortar...<ref>The Second Anglo-Afghan War of 1878-1881 is probably meant. – Ed.</ref>


We were burning with curiosity after hearing the stories of Hyderabad miracles, and we wanted to see firsthand this magical country. And Narayan, and Babu, both of them visited it several times, and Narayan even has relatives there. He was particularly fascinated us with his stories and descriptions, since he was familiar with each corner of the Central India. The great past of India, the great even so recently – in the past [18th] century was so sadly reflected in his eloquent tales, in comparison with its present bitter situation. How far down fell the beauty of the East, before which once sought to prostrate themselves all the sages of Greece and whose wealth was the envy of all the kings of the earth!.. Everything in it trampled in the dust, the downtrodden, gradually is fading and disappearing, from the smallest national impulse, immediately repressed by jealous, suspicious England, to the once magnificent virgin forests... now falling on hundreds of desyatins<ref>''Desyatina'' (tithe) is a measure of area in Russia before the introduction of the metric system. There were several values of it, including "state desyatina", equal to 2400 square sazhens = 1.09 hectares = 2.69 acres. – Ed. </ref> at a time under the axe of the railroads makers.
We were burning with curiosity after hearing the stories of Hyderabad miracles, and we wanted to see firsthand this magical country. And Narayan, and Babu, both of them visited it several times, and Narayan even has relatives there. He particularly fascinated us with his stories and descriptions, since he was familiar with each corner of the Central India. The great past of India, the great even so recently – in the past [18th] century was so sadly reflected in his eloquent tales, in comparison with its present bitter situation. How far down fell the beauty of the East, before which once sought to prostrate themselves all the sages of Greece and whose wealth was the envy of all the kings of the earth!.. Everything in it trampled in the dust, the downtrodden, gradually is fading and disappearing, from the smallest national impulse, immediately repressed by jealous, suspicious England, to the once magnificent virgin forests... now falling on hundreds of desyatins<ref>''Desyatina'' (tithe) is a measure of area in Russia before the introduction of the metric system. There were several values of it, including "state desyatina", equal to 2400 square sazhens = 1.09 hectares = 2.69 acres. – Ed. </ref> at a time under the axe of the railroads makers.


There was something extremely captivating in these simple stories of the poor Hindu. Like the last song of the swan sounded in them a note of patriotism, the downtrodden, restrained but just as heartfelt as the love for the motherland of his glorious ancestors, forcing them to sacrifice not only wealth and their own lives but even the lives of all their loved ones – wives and children, – to the glory of the fatherland under the victorious banner of Shivaji. Besides ruining themselves and the country, the Anglo-Indians commit the greatest blunders, at least in two points of their present Government system. These two points are: first, the Western education they give to the higher classes; and, secondly, the protection and maintenance of the rights of idol worship. Neither of these systems is wise. By means of the first they successfully replace the religious feelings of old India, which, however false, had the great advantage of being sincere, by a positive atheism amongst the young generation of the Brahmins; and by the means of the second they flatter only the ignorant masses, from whom nothing is to be feared under any circumstances. If the patriotic feelings of the bulk of the population could possibly be roused, the English would have been slaughtered long ago. The rural populace is unarmed, it is true, but a crowd seeking revenge could use the brass and stone idols, sent to India by thousands from Birmingham, with as great success as if they were so many swords. But, as it is, the masses of India are indifferent and harmless; so that the only existing danger comes from the side of the ''educated'' classes, whose most sacred feeling – love and devotion to the motherland – the English trample under their feet at every opportunity. The more educated and developed the Hindu becomes, the more bitter for him the comparison of the present with what was.  
There was something extremely captivating in these simple stories of the poor Hindu. Like the last song of the swan sounded in them a note of patriotism, the downtrodden, restrained but just as heartfelt as the love for the motherland of his glorious ancestors, forcing them to sacrifice not only wealth and their own lives but even the lives of all their loved ones – wives and children, – to the glory of the fatherland under the victorious banner of Shivaji. Besides ruining themselves and the country, the Anglo-Indians commit the greatest blunders, at least in two points of their present Government system. These two points are: first, the Western education they give to the higher classes; and, secondly, the protection and maintenance of the rights of idol worship. Neither of these systems is wise. By means of the first they successfully replace the religious feelings of old India, which, however false, had the great advantage of being sincere, by a positive atheism amongst the young generation of the Brahmins; and by the means of the second they flatter only the ignorant masses, from whom nothing is to be feared under any circumstances. If the patriotic feelings of the bulk of the population could possibly be roused, the English would have been slaughtered long ago. The rural populace is unarmed, it is true, but a crowd seeking revenge could use the brass and stone idols, sent to India by thousands from Birmingham, with as great success as if they were so many swords. But, as it is, the masses of India are indifferent and harmless; so that the only existing danger comes from the side of the ''educated'' classes, whose most sacred feeling – love and devotion to the motherland – the English trample under their feet at every opportunity. The more educated and developed the Hindu becomes, the more bitter for him the comparison of the present with what was.  
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Calculating that there was no obstacle to our going to the Bagh [caves], and that going to Sindh was a perfect impossibility, we recovered our equanimity. Then the general council decided that we had better abandon all ideas of a predetermined plan, and travel as fancy led us, wherever our eyes look. Due to such a plan in the next day we dismissed our elephants and took ''tongas<ref>''Tonga'' is a light carriage drawn by one horse. – Ed.</ref>'', in which we arrived a little before sunset at the spot where the Vagrey and Girna join. These are two little rivers, quite famous in the annals of the Indian mythology, and which are generally conspicuous by their absence, especially in summer. In front of us, like a monster lurking on the opposite shore, the mountain gaped with its four holes, as if blinking its sunken, black eyes in the gloomy fog... These were the notorious Bagh caves...
Calculating that there was no obstacle to our going to the Bagh [caves], and that going to Sindh was a perfect impossibility, we recovered our equanimity. Then the general council decided that we had better abandon all ideas of a predetermined plan, and travel as fancy led us, wherever our eyes look. Due to such a plan in the next day we dismissed our elephants and took ''tongas<ref>''Tonga'' is a light carriage drawn by one horse. – Ed.</ref>'', in which we arrived a little before sunset at the spot where the Vagrey and Girna join. These are two little rivers, quite famous in the annals of the Indian mythology, and which are generally conspicuous by their absence, especially in summer. In front of us, like a monster lurking on the opposite shore, the mountain gaped with its four holes, as if blinking its sunken, black eyes in the gloomy fog... These were the notorious Bagh caves...


We thought of crossing to them immediately, by the help of a ferry boat, but this time prudence prevailed over the attractive prospect of a night spent in the caves of ancient hermits (like we did in Karli). Besides, our Hindus and even the ''tangavallas'' with the ferrymen flatly refused to accompany us. The former said that visiting these caves is dangerous even by daytime, without first sending people there with torches and armed ''shikari'' (hunters); because this part of Amdjir Raga is full of beasts of prey, especialy of tigers, who, obviously, are like the Bengali Babus, to be met with everywhere in India. As to the boatmen, they protested because no Hindu would dare to approach these caves within a mile after the sun set. No one but a ''bellati'' with their “foolish geographical concepts” would fancy that Vagrey and Girna are ordinary rivers, for every Hindu knows they are divine spouses, the god Shiva and his wife Parvati – this, in the first instance. And in the second, the Bagh tigers are no ordinary tigers either, as ''sahibs'' think. These tigers are the servants of the ''sadhus'', of the holy miracle-workers, who have haunted the caves now for many centuries, they are often even "werewolves" of these most ancient elders. And neither the gods, nor the sadhus, nor the werewolves, nor the tigers are fond of being disturbed in their nightly rest...
We thought of crossing to them immediately, by the help of a ferry boat, but this time prudence prevailed over the attractive prospect of a night spent in the caves of ancient hermits (like we did in Karli). Besides, our Hindus and even the ''tangavallas'' with the ferrymen flatly refused to accompany us. The former said that visiting these caves is dangerous even by daytime, without first sending people there with torches and armed ''shikari'' (hunters); because this part of Amdjir Raga is full of beasts of prey, especially of tigers, who, obviously, are like the Bengali Babus, to be met with everywhere in India. As to the boatmen, they protested because no Hindu would dare to approach these caves within a mile after the sun set. No one but a ''bellati'' with their “foolish geographical concepts” would fancy that Vagrey and Girna are ordinary rivers, for every Hindu knows they are divine spouses, the god Shiva and his wife Parvati – this, in the first instance. And in the second, the Bagh tigers are no ordinary tigers either, as ''sahibs'' think. These tigers are the servants of the ''sadhus'', of the holy miracle-workers, who have haunted the caves now for many centuries, they are often even "werewolves" of these most ancient elders. And neither the gods, nor the sadhus, nor the werewolves, nor the tigers are fond of being disturbed in their nightly rest...


There was nothing to do about it. We cast one more sorrowful look at the caves, and returned to our antediluvian carriages and went on. The Babu and Narayan decided that we would spend the night at the house of a certain “chum” of the Babu in Bagh town, three miles [4.83&nbsp;km] further on.
There was nothing to do about it. We cast one more sorrowful look at the caves, and returned to our antediluvian carriages and went on. The Babu and Narayan decided that we would spend the night at the house of a certain “chum” of the Babu in Bagh town, three miles [4.83&nbsp;km] further on.